Culinary Bite logo

Exploring the Depths of Spanish Ham Heritage

A close-up view of Jamón Ibérico, showcasing its marbled texture and rich color.
A close-up view of Jamón Ibérico, showcasing its marbled texture and rich color.

Intro

Spanish ham is not merely a product of culinary skill; it is a cultural artefact, steeped in history and craftsmanship. This article endeavors to take you through the intricate layers that make up the story of Spain's celebrated hams, with a focus on Jamón Ibérico and Jamón Serrano. Understanding these hams requires recognition of their origins, methods of production, and their significance in both Spanish and global gastronomy.

The allure of Spanish ham lies in its unique flavors, which vary not only by region but also by the specific breeds of pigs used, their diet, and the meticulous curing processes. This guide will equip you with knowledge about the preparation, the technical aspects of cooking, and how to savor these culinary treasures.

Moving step-by-step through the intricacies of Spanish ham will help elevate your culinary experience.

Ingredients:

A successful dish featuring Spanish ham hinges on its quality. To create a simple yet delicious plate, consider gathering the following ingredients:

  • 100g Jamón Ibérico or Jamón Serrano
  • 4 slices of artisanal bread (preferably sourdough)
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 clove garlic (optional)
  • Tomato (for traditional pan con tomate)
  • A sprinkle of sea salt
  • Fresh herbs (like basil or parsley for garnish, optional)

Preparation Steps:

  1. Selecting the Ham: Begin by choosing high-quality Jamón Ibérico or Jamón Serrano from a reputable source. The flavor and texture are paramount.
  2. Preparing Ingredients: If using garlic for flavor, peel and slice it. Rinse the tomato and slice it in half for the traditional topping with bread.
  3. Toasting the Bread: Toast the slices of bread until they become lightly golden. This will enhance their texture.

Quality ingredients are key to elevating simple dishes into culinary experiences.

Technical Aspects:

  • Toasting Temperature: Use medium heat for the bread. A more potent flavor can come from broiling if you prefer a faster method.
  • Timing for Toasting: Each slice of bread typically takes about 2-3 minutes. Keep an eye to avoid burning.
  • Olive Oil Quality: The oil should be fresh and fruity, complementing the ham and enhancing the overall taste.

Cooking Process:

  1. Toasting: Start by toasting the bread slices as defined above. You may opt to rub them with garlic after toasting for additional flavor.
  2. Tomato Preparation: Once toasted, rub the halved tomato on the warm bread. Press lightly to release the juices.
  3. Drizzling Olive Oil: Drizzle the extra virgin olive oil generously over the toasted bread, followed by a light sprinkle of sea salt.
  4. Plating: Arrange the sliced ham elegantly over the bread, garnishing with fresh herbs if desired.

Troubleshooting Tips:

  • Bread Too Hard: If the bread is too hard after toasting, consider reducing the toasting time or opting for a thicker slice.
  • Flavor Lacking: Adjust the amount of olive oil and salt until you're satisfied with the flavor. Sometimes a little extra oil can enhance the dish significantly.
  • Excess Moisture: If the tomato releases too much juice, toast the bread a bit longer or use a firmer variety of tomato.

This journey through Spanish ham reveals its rich history and exceptional flavors. By preparing and enjoying it thoughtfully, you contribute to a tradition that has nourished generations.

The Evolution of Spanish Ham

Understanding the evolution of Spanish ham is key to appreciating its complexity and cultural significance. Spanish ham, particularly Jamón Ibérico and Jamón Serrano, has a storied past that intertwines with the history of Spain itself. Recognizing how these hams developed over centuries allows us to grasp the artisan techniques and cultural reverence that define them today. The historical context not only highlights the production methods that have stood the test of time but also explores how tradition shapes current culinary practices.

Historical Context

Spanish ham has its roots in ancient civilizations. Archeological findings suggest that curing methods were practiced as far back as the Roman Empire, but the real development occurred in the Iberian Peninsula. Farmers began to breed pigs specifically for their meat, influenced by the region's climate and natural resources. This adaptability set the stage for the iconic hams we know today.

Curing of ham became an essential practice. Initially, curing was simply a means to preserve meat. Without modern refrigeration, people relied on salting and drying techniques. These methods evolved over generations, fine-tuning the process into what is now recognized as a culinary tradition. Over time, specific regions in Spain developed their own unique styles, contributing to a diverse hamming culture that is still prevalent.

Cultural Significance

The cultural importance of Spanish ham cannot be overstated. In Spanish society, ham is not just food; it is a symbol of heritage, craftsmanship, and community. Jamón Ibérico, originating from the black Iberian pig, is often seen as a luxury item, a product of meticulous care and a natural environment. It is served in various settings, from casual gatherings to formal affairs, celebrating both casual and elaborate culinary experiences.

Jamón Serrano, a more widely available variety, plays a crucial role in everyday life. It is typical to find serrano ham in tapas bars around Spain, emphasizing its accessibility and the common man’s connection to this traditional food. The preparation and enjoyment of Spanish ham illustrate the broader gastronomic identity of Spain, where communal dining and family gatherings often highlight regional specialties.

"Spanish ham is a bridge between the past and present, embodying traditions that thrive in modern kitchens."

Thus, examining the evolution of Spanish ham reveals much about Spanish culture itself. The dedication to craft and quality reflects a unique identity that persists in marketing, gastronomy, and even tourism. Understanding where Spanish ham has come from enhances its appreciation and informs the new generation of cooks and food lovers.

Types of Spanish Ham

Understanding the different types of Spanish ham is vital. Each variety has unique characteristics, production techniques, and cultural significance that contribute to their esteem in culinary circles. Within this section, we will explore two prominent types: Jamón Ibérico and Jamón Serrano. These distinctions not only inform chefs and food enthusiasts but also illuminate the broader gastronomic landscape of Spain. Their importance lies in the journey from production to consumption, showcasing the rich history and methods behind these iconic hams.

Jamón Ibérico

An array of various Spanish hams displayed on a rustic wooden board.
An array of various Spanish hams displayed on a rustic wooden board.

Production Methods

The production methods of Jamón Ibérico are of great importance. Known for its meticulous detail, the process is a blend of traditional practice and environmental stewardship. One key characteristic is the use of free-range pigs, specifically the Iberian breed. These pigs forage on acorns, which significantly affects the meat's quality. The benefit of these methods is that they ensure a product that is both authentic and deeply tied to its environment. A unique feature is the rigorous selection process for the pigs, which only the best are chosen based on genetics and diet. This enhances the overall quality of the ham.

Aging Process

The aging process for Jamón Ibérico serves a pivotal role in flavor development. Hams are typically aged for periods ranging from 24 to 48 months or more. This long aging period contributes to their complex flavors. A highlight of this process is the natural transformation that occurs as the meat cures, allowing flavors to deepen and mature. The downside is that this requires extensive patience and careful monitoring, which can be a challenge for producers but results in a superior product. Its unique feature lies in the balance created between the rich initial flavor and the subtle notes that emerge later.

Taste Profile

The taste profile of Jamón Ibérico is regarded among the best in the world. Its flavors are complex, ranging from savory to slightly sweet, with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. A key characteristic is the marbling of fat, which gives it a rich taste while keeping the meat tender. This complexity makes it a beloved choice for those seeking high-quality gastronomy. The unique aspect of its taste is how it varies by region and specific production methods. However, this might be less accessible in terms of cost, as high-quality Jamón Ibérico commands a premium price.

Jamón Serrano

Regional Varieties

Regional varieties of Jamón Serrano highlight its diverse cultural roots. Originating from various regions within Spain, each type has its unique characteristics influenced by local traditions and climates. One important aspect is the difference in flavor and texture depending on the region where the ham is produced. This variety is beneficial as it offers consumers a richer experience of Spanish culture through its food traditions. A unique feature is how each region invites distinct local practices and ingredients. However, the array may lead to confusion for those unfamiliar with the specifics of each variety.

Production Techniques

The production techniques of Jamón Serrano often emphasize simplicity and natural processes. Producers typically focus on traditional curing methods, which involve salting and drying the hams in cool, dry air. One characteristic of these techniques is that they allow for a smaller production scale, making it easier for artisanal producers to maintain quality. This is a popular choice for consumers seeking authenticity. A unique aspect is the influence of specific regional climates, which can alter drying times and conditions. However, this can also mean that production is vulnerable to climate variations.

Flavor Characteristics

Flavor characteristics of Jamón Serrano reflect its varied regional influences. Generally, it has a robust and slightly salty taste, with a more straightforward flavor profile compared to Jamón Ibérico. The key characteristic is its firm texture, which makes it a versatile choice for cooking and serving. This makes it a beneficial addition to various dishes. A unique feature is how its flavor can slightly change depending on the region and the specific aging process used. However, this may lack the complexity that some consumers seek in more premium products.

Geographical Indications

Geographical Indications (GIs) play a crucial role in preserving the authenticity and heritage of Spanish ham. These designations not only protect the unique qualities of products linked to specific locations but also promote local traditions and craftsmanship. The recognition of GIs ensures that consumers can trust the origin and the quality of the ham they purchase. This section explores the significance of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and the influence of terroir on Spanish ham, two essential components in understanding the complexity of Spanish ham.

Protected Designation of Origin

Significance of PDO

The Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) is essential in safeguarding the reputations of iconic products like Jamón Ibérico and Jamón Serrano. PDO guarantees that these hams are produced, processed, and prepared in a specific geographical region, adhering to stringent standards. This designation fosters consumer confidence by ensuring authenticity. Moreover, the PDO status highlights the artisanal methods and well-defined practices that encompass each stage of production. A unique aspect of PDO is its focus on traditional methods that have been passed down through generations. However, this also creates challenges, as producers must strictly adhere to specific regulations that may limit innovation in techniques.

Major Regions

The Major Regions for Spanish ham include areas like Andalusia, Extremadura, and Catalonia. Each of these regions boasts distinct environmental conditions that contribute to the quality of the hams produced. For instance, the acorn-rich pastures in Extremadura influence the flavor profile of Jamón Ibérico, making it one of the most sought-after hams globally. The key characteristic of these regions lies not only in their climate but also in their traditions. Each area's unique production methods, combining local expertise and natural resources, result in a superior product. However, the focus on specific regions can sometimes limit the accessibility of these premium hams for consumers outside these locales.

Influence of Terroir

Climate

The climate directly affects the production and quality of Spanish ham. Regions with varying climatic conditions provide unique properties that enhance the flavor and texture of the hams. For example, the Mediterranean climate leads to a longer drying process, which results in a more concentrated flavor. The key characteristic of climate is its ability to shape the ecosystem, affecting everything from the feed the pigs consume to the curing conditions in drying sheds. These influences create a unique link between the ham and its origin. However, there is a concern regarding climate change and its potential impact on future production, which might disrupt traditional methods.

Climate Impact on Flavor

The impact of climate on flavor is profound. Specifically, the temperature and humidity levels experienced during the curing process can significantly alter the taste. A warm climate may accelerate the drying process, resulting in a different texture and potentially overpowering flavors. Conversely, cooler temperatures can prolong curing, enhancing subtle, nuanced flavors. This relationship emphasizes why observing local climatic factors is essential in the production of high-quality ham. Understanding these impacts allows producers to better align their processes with environmental changes to maintain the integrity of their products.

"The intricate relationship between geographical indications and the production of Spanish ham directly contributes to its unique culinary status."

Through examining the geographical indications, including PDO and the influence of terroir, one gains a deeper appreciation for the complexities involved in curating Spanish ham. This truly elevates it to a higher dietary artistry, connecting consumers not just to a product, but also to the rich cultural heritage behind it.

Artisanal Production Techniques

Artisanal production techniques are fundamental to the crafting of Spanish ham, as they encompass both time-honored practices and innovative approaches that ensure the quality of this revered meat. These techniques do not only define the final product but also connect the producer's heritage to the consumer's palate. Understanding these methods allows one to appreciate the depth and complexity of Spanish ham.

Traditional Methods

Salting

The scenic landscape of the Iberian Peninsula, highlighting the grazing fields for Iberian pigs.
The scenic landscape of the Iberian Peninsula, highlighting the grazing fields for Iberian pigs.

Salting is a critical stage in the production of Spanish ham. It involves applying a layer of sea salt to the meat. This process serves multiple purposes. Firstly, it acts as a preservative, drawing moisture out and creating an environment inhospitable for bacteria. Secondly, salting enhances the flavor of the ham.

One notable feature of salting is its ability to integrate salt evenly into the meat over time. This gradual absorption not only contributes to flavor but also affects the texture. Favorably, this method is widely regarded for its natural approach, avoiding artificial additives.

However, over-salting can lead to an excessively salty taste, which might mask the meat’s natural flavors. Thus, experts must balance the amount of salt used carefully.

Drying

Drying occurs after salting and is crucial in developing the texture and flavor profile of Spanish ham. It takes place in a controlled environment, allowing for the slow evaporation of moisture. This step can significantly influence the ham's tensile strength and bite.

The key characteristic of drying is its duration, which spans several weeks to months. This long process enhances the concentration of flavors, leading to a richer taste experience. Furthermore, the gradual drying allows for better retention of aroma compounds, making the ham distinct.

On the downside, if the drying conditions are not monitored correctly, there is a risk of spoilage or undesired taste variations. Producers need to be attentive to humidity levels and air circulation during this stage.

Curing

Curing is the final artisan technique which can take many months. This step allows the ham to undergo biochemical transformations that deepen its flavor. Enzymatic action within the meat enhances umami notes, creating a unique taste.

A distinguishing feature of the curing process is the time commitment it requires. A well-cured jamón ibérico, for example, can take up to three years. This prolonged time allows the flavors to develop complexity and nuance.

Despite its advantages, such as unmatched flavor and authenticity, the lengthy curing process limits the production quantities. Hence, not every producer can afford such a method, which can lead to higher prices for consumers.

Modern Innovations

Modern innovations have entered the artisanal production of Spanish ham. These advancements can enhance traditional practices while addressing the challenges of today's market environment.

Technological Advancements

Technological advancements are reshaping the production process. From monitoring environmental conditions to employing precision in salting and drying, technology reduces waste and improves efficiency. This leads to a consistent product that maintains the tradition of quality.

One key advantage is the ability to track the aging process more accurately. This data-driven approach enables producers to replicate successful batches, ensuring a reliable flavor profile that meets consumer expectations.

However, reliance on technology could detract from the artisanal charm. Traditionalists may argue that excessive use of technology dilutes the craftsmanship intrinsic to Spanish ham production.

Sustainability Practices

Sustainability practices are becoming more essential in the artisanal ham sector. Producers are revising their methods to minimize environmental impact. These practices can include sourcing local feed for pigs and utilizing renewable energy sources in production facilities.

The key characteristic of sustainability practices is an emphasis on ecological balance. By implementing these methods, producers can create a product that is not only high in quality but also mindful of its environmental footprint.

Nevertheless, some may view sustainable methods as cost-prohibitive. The initial investment in sustainable technologies may deter smaller producers from adopting these practices, potentially making it difficult for them to compete.

Culinary Applications

Culinary applications of Spanish ham are pivotal in understanding its place in the gastronomic world. The way ham is incorporated into dishes or served can elevate not just the flavor but also the overall dining experience. Every element, from pairing it with wines to incorporating it into recipes, adds layers of complexity and richness. In this section, we delve into these applications, providing insights that can help anyone appreciate the art of enjoying Spanish ham.

Serving Suggestions

Pairings with Wines

Pairing Spanish ham with the right wine is an art that enhances the meal significantly. The key characteristic of such pairings lies in complementing the savoriness of the ham with the unique flavor profiles of wines. For instance, a Jamón Ibérico often goes well with a full-bodied red wine like a Rioja. Its richness balances the ham's fat content while enhancing the tasting experience.

A significant benefit of this pairing is the simple pleasure it brings to social gatherings; it fosters a cozy atmosphere among diners. However, one must consider the wine selection carefully. Some wine varieties, if overly tannic, can overshadow the subtle flavors of the ham. Thus, selecting a wine that harmonizes without overpowering is essential.

Complementary Foods

Integrating Spanish ham with complementary foods is another effective way to enhance meals. Common accompaniments include cheeses, fruits, and crusty bread. The key characteristic of these pairings is their ability to create a well-rounded flavor experience. For example, pairing Jamón Serrano with aged Manchego cheese provides a delightful contrast of textures and flavors.

Additionally, these combinations are popular due to how easily they can be assembled, making them ideal for tapas or casual dining. However, one should note that not all combinations will yield the desired effect. Choosing complementary foods that can either balance or elevate the characteristics of the ham is crucial.

In Recipes

A traditional Spanish ham curing facility, illustrating the aging process.
A traditional Spanish ham curing facility, illustrating the aging process.

Traditional Dishes

Traditional dishes featuring Spanish ham are always a highlight. These meals tap into cultural roots, integrating ham into recipes passed down through generations. The key characteristic is how these recipes showcase the ham’s flavor in a way that resonates with the rich culinary tradition of Spain. For instance, a classic tortilla española incorporates thinly sliced Serrano ham, enriching the dish while maintaining its cultural essence.

The charm of traditional recipes is their simplicity and authenticity. They can bring a taste of Spain right into one's home, allowing for a deeper connection to its culinary heritage. However, replicating the same flavor profile can be challenging, especially when sourcing high-quality ingredients.

Modern Culinary Trends

Modern culinary trends are reshaping how Spanish ham is perceived in contemporary kitchens. Chefs and home cooks alike experiment with innovative dishes, often integrating ham into fusion cuisine. The key characteristic of these trends is their emphasis on creativity while respecting traditional roots. One can see Spanish ham beautifully incorporated in gourmet sliders or as a topping for gourmet pizzas.

This approach allows for exploration beyond typical uses, making Spanish ham accessible to a wider audience. However, the challenge often lies in balancing innovation with tradition. It can be difficult for readers to appreciate the depth if modern interpretations stray too far from the original essence of the ham.

In summary, culinary applications of Spanish ham serve as a bridge between tradition and innovation, offering a vibrant exploration of flavors and cultural significance.

The Global Impact of Spanish Ham

Spanish ham, particularly Jamón Ibérico and Jamón Serrano, signifies cultural richness and culinary excellence far beyond its geographic origins. The global impact of Spanish ham is multi-faceted, influencing not only gastronomy but also trade and cultural exchange. By appreciating these nuances, one can understand the significance of Spanish ham on a global scale and how it bridges traditional practices with modern consumption patterns.

Export Trends

Primary Markets

The primary markets for Spanish ham exhibit diversity, with significant contributions from countries such as the United States, Japan, and significant parts of Europe. Each of these markets plays a crucial role in expanding the reach of Spanish ham. U.S. consumers have shown increased interest in high-quality gourmet products, positioning Spanish ham as a popular choice. Additionally, Japan's appreciation for carefully crafted food products highlights a trend toward premium offerings.
These markets also underscore the important characteristics of authenticity and quality, both of which are intrinsic to Spanish ham. Products like Jamón Ibérico are often viewed as luxury items, making them desirable in these regions. The main advantage here is the maintaining of a high standard of craftsmanship that aligns well with the expectations of discerning consumers.

Sales Growth Patterns

Observing sales growth patterns reveals an upward trajectory in the demand for Spanish ham globally. A notable aspect of this trend is the increase in online sales and specialty food stores focusing on gourmet products. The accessibility of Spanish ham through varied channels has significantly contributed to its rise in popularity. Additionally, during events and celebrations, the demand peaks, showcasing the cultural significance of this delicacy. One key feature of these sales growth patterns is how they adapt to changing consumer preferences, emphasizing quality over quantity. The challenges do include competition from other specialty meats and the necessity of maintaining authentic production methods while scaling production to meet demand. Yet, reflecting a dynamic market, Spanish ham stands resilient by emphasizing its heritage.

International Recognition

Awards and Accolades

Spanish ham has garnered various awards and accolades, amplifying its prestige on the global stage. Recognitions from culinary competitions and food festivals underline not just its quality but also the craftsmanship behind its production. Such accolades contribute to consumer trust and encourage culinary professionals to use these products in their kitchens. A strong characteristic of these awards is that they foster a greater interest in traditional methods of production, bridging the gap between artisanal practices and modern culinary discovery. The unique feature here is the publicity many of these awards generate, which can significantly influence consumer trends and preferences. While gaining awards can be advantageous, it creates high expectations from consumers that must consistently be met.

Influence on Global Cuisine

The influence of Spanish ham on global cuisine is profound yet understated. Culinary professionals incorporate Spanish ham into diverse dishes, showcasing its versatility. This incorporation has led to an increased appreciation for Spanish flavors and producing traditional recipes that resonate globally. A beneficial aspect is the uniqueness it brings to fusion cuisine, allowing chefs to experiment further. A notable significance of this influence is how it has contributed to the recognition of the Mediterranean diet. With health benefits and flavors, Spanish ham often gets featured in healthy eating initiatives around the world. However, while it enriches menus globally, it also poses challenges regarding authenticity and maintaining traditional practices amidst varying culinary interpretations.

"The global popularity of Spanish ham reflects a fusion of tradition and modern culinary trends, showcasing its unique and valuable place in our food culture."

Through exploring these dimensions, we grasp how Spanish ham transcends its borders, building bridges between cultures, tastes, and culinary standards across the globe.

Challenges Facing the Spanish Ham Industry

The Spanish ham industry is as rich and varied as the product itself. However, it faces several challenges that threaten its sustainability and growth. Understanding these hurdles is crucial for both producers and consumers who appreciate the quality of Jamón Ibérico and Jamón Serrano. The challenges can range from regulatory issues to deeper concerns about sustainability. Addressing these challenges will ensure the longevity of high-quality Spanish ham production and maintain its place in global gastronomy.

Regulatory Hurdles

Navigating the regulatory landscape is one of the key challenges for producers in the Spanish ham industry. Strict regulations often aim to protect quality, but they can also present barriers for small-scale producers.

One major factor of the regulatory framework in Spain is the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) system. This system ensures that only ham produced in certain geographic areas, using prescribed methods, can be labeled as Jamón Ibérico or Jamón Serrano. While this system adds value and preserves tradition, it can also complicate production for non-PDO certified hams.

Producers must comply with various certifications and health regulations. These can vary by region and require substantial documentation and investment in quality control processes. Small producers, in particular, may lack the resources to meet these regulatory demands. In addition, international trade regulations can create barriers when exporting Spanish ham to other countries. Tariffs, trade agreements, and differing health standards can all impact market access. This makes it difficult for producers to compete in an increasingly global marketplace.

Sustainability Concerns

Sustainability is an issue that is increasingly becoming a focal point in the Spanish ham industry. As worldwide demand for ham rises, the methods of production must adapt to ensure that the process is environmentally responsible. The reliance on traditional methods, while preserving the quality of the ham, can sometimes conflict with modern sustainability practices.

One significant concern is the impact of intensive pig farming on land and resources. To maintain high-quality meat, producers must raise pigs in a manner that respects their natural environment. However, as demand grows, some may turn to more intensive methods that are detrimental to soil health and biodiversity. This presents a challenge as local ecosystems may suffer.

Another sustainability issue is linked to the food supply chain. Increasing awareness of carbon footprint and food waste means that producers need to assess and optimize their processes. Each stage of production must be scrutinized for efficiency to minimize waste.

Efforts to promote sustainability are increasingly important, but they require cooperation among producers, regulatory bodies, and consumers. The struggle is not just to produce high-quality ham but to do so in a way that protects the environment for future generations.

"The balance between tradition and sustainability is crucial for the future of Spanish ham."

Addressing regulatory hurdles and sustainability challenges is imperative for the health of the Spanish ham industry. It demands a comprehensive approach that respects heritage while adapting to contemporary issues. By fostering awareness and encouraging sustainable practices, the industry can thrive in a competitive global market.

Recipe Box Convenience
Recipe Box Convenience
Discover how recipe boxes are transforming home cooking with convenience, variety, and enhanced culinary skills. Find out the benefits, challenges, and tips for maximizing their potential. 🍽️📦
Savory Hungarian Mushroom Soup
Savory Hungarian Mushroom Soup
Delve into the flavorful world of Hungarian cuisine with this delectable recipe for Hungarian Mushroom Soup. 🍲 Explore the origins, learn how to make it step-by-step, and enhance its savory taste. Get ready to impress your taste buds with this high-IQ approved recipe.
Carrots
Carrots
Discover the perfect recipe for carrot and coriander soup, a delicious and nutritious dish that will impress even the most discerning palates. 🥕🌿 Get ready to elevate your culinary skills with this easy-to-follow recipe.
Illustration of a diverse selection of fruits and vegetables
Illustration of a diverse selection of fruits and vegetables
Discover the intricate link between your diet and the results of gastric bypass surgery 🍏🥦 Explore how your dietary decisions can impact the effectiveness of the procedure and your overall well-being post-surgery.